A Logitech G Pro can buzz along with the engine, tick while the rim sits still, creak through the quick release, or send a low hum through the whole cockpit. Online, all four get called a rattle, which is why the fixes you find contradict each other.
A one-minute test tells you whether your Logitech G Pro wheel noise comes from TrueForce settings or needs a hardware check. Steering force and TrueForce vibration travel down the same shaft, so excess vibration can bury useful steering detail.
What Noise Are You Hearing?
Get the noise to happen using the same car, the same corner, and the same wheel profile. Swapping tracks between runs won’t help in knowing whether a setting helped or the corner just felt different.
While it’s happening, watch the rim. Then listen closely to the vent at the back of the base, and rest a hand on the plate your base is bolted to. If the plate is buzzing, the rig is adding to what you’re hearing.
| What you hear or feel | Check first |
| Buzz that follows engine revs | TF Audio and the game’s engine vibration setting |
| Harsh chatter over kerbs or rough tarmac | TF Audio, road texture and rumble strip effects |
| Rhythmic tick with a small wheel twitch, quiet under light steering pressure | Dampener |
| Rear tick that turns up after a long session and changes as the base cools | Cooling fan |
| Creak or scrape while turning | Rim seating, quick release, mount or casing |
| The whole cockpit hums at one engine speed | Wheel deck or rig resonance |
| Grinding, loose steering, or force feedback that fades or surges | Logitech support |
Owners have reported two different ticks. One follows the cooling fan and turns up after a long session. The other comes with the wheel visibly twitching and goes quiet the moment you put light pressure on the rim. Treat them as separate symptoms and test them differently.
Before you touch anything else, set TF Audio to 0 and run that same corner again. If the noise goes, your answer is in the TrueForce settings below. If it’s still there, carry on to the Dampener test and the hardware checks.
Image Source: Logitech
Set TF Audio for the Game You’re Playing
You’ll find TF Audio in the wheel’s OLED menu. It sets the strength of the TrueForce effects tied to engine note, tyre grip, and road surface.
You’ve already got it at 0 from the first test. Bring it back up in small steps and stop when you can feel the useful cue without a constant buzz coming off the rim.
Logitech’s recommended figures vary by title and platform. The current table lists TF Audio 100 for iRacing and 60 for Le Mans Ultimate, while the full set of published values runs from 10 to 100.
There’s no particular number to aim for. Use the lowest value that keeps the effect readable.
On PC, the wheel has five onboard profiles plus a G HUB option. Pick G HUB and the wheel follows whichever software profile is active. Changes made through the OLED menu write back to that profile, so check that the correct game is loaded before you test again. Logitech explains the profile behaviour in its PRO Racing Wheel manual.
For iRacing, leave FFB Filter at 1 while testing. Changing it at the same time alters the steering feel and makes the result harder to judge.
If the vibration is still too loud, lower the rumble, vibration, or TrueForce control inside the game. Leave the wheel’s Strength setting alone. That one changes the steering torque you feel through corners and will muddy the test.
Image Source: Logitech
Use this test when the wheel ticks at regular intervals, twitches while sitting still, or goes quiet when you put a little pressure on the rim.
Write your current Dampener value down, then set it to OFF. Move the rim a few degrees each way, let go, and listen. Owners found the tick can hang around until the wheel has been moved, so don’t judge the result while it sits untouched.
Try it in three places:
- The game’s main menu
- Parked on track
- Driving normally
On the GTPlanet G Pro thread, several owners said turning Dampener off stopped the ticking and twitching. One went more than 4 hours without the symptom. Another found that anything above 0, even 1, brought it back.
Asked about the twitching on that thread, a Logitech representative said it was on the company’s investigation list.
It doesn’t work for every base. If the tick remains with Dampener off, keep going through the fan, mounting, and quick-release checks further down.
Keep both hands on the wheel while you test this. With damping off, a direct-drive wheel can start swinging left and right quickly if you let go. Logitech advises pausing the game before taking hold of an oscillating wheel again.
Image Source: Logitech
Stop iRacing Putting Trueforce Back to 100%
This fix is for iRacing on PC. Console users can skip to the rim and mounting checks. Close iRacing, then find this file:
- Documents\iRacing\app.ini
Copy it somewhere safe before changing anything. Search for [TrueForce], then find:
- trueForceSetGain=1
Change the 1 to 0, so it becomes:
- trueForceSetGain=0
Save the file and open iRacing again.
At 1, iRacing pushes the wheel’s TrueForce gain to 100% every time the sim launches. At 0, it leaves the value you chose through the wheel menu alone.
iRacing added the option for drivers who control TrueForce strength from the wheel instead of the in-game hotkeys.
Do this first if your TF Audio setting keeps springing back up when iRacing opens. Fine-tuning individual effects won’t get you far while the sim keeps resetting the main gain.
Old forum posts may point you toward Force Feedback. That section held some of the earlier TrueForce switches. The volume controls you need now are under TrueForce, so your file may look different from screenshots in older threads.
Turn Down the One Effect Making the Noise
Once the main gain stays put, go back out in the same car and listen for which effect starts the noise. Then change that one line.
These are the main controls to search for:
- volTrueForceMaster_dB=
- volTrueForcePhysEngineRPM_dB=
- volTrueForcePhysRoadTexture_dB=
- volTrueForcePhysRumbleStrip_dB=
- volTrueForcePhysWheelSlip_dB=
If every effect feels too strong, lower volTrueForceMaster_dB by 3 dB first and test again. That saves you chasing five separate values when the master control may settle the whole lot.
A buzz that climbs with the revs is EngineRPM. Steady vibration from the moment the car starts rolling points toward RoadTexture. A sharp hit over kerbs comes from RumbleStrip.
Leave WheelSlip until last. iRacing runs its tyre-slip and ABS effects through that volume control, so lowering it can weaken two useful warnings at once. The relationship is documented in the iRacing TrueForce release notes.
Negative numbers make an effect quieter. Positive numbers make it louder. Move in steps of 3 to 5 dB, change one line at a time, and close iRacing before each edit. Run the same section of track after every change.
Your file may say RoadTexture or RoadTextures. Search for RoadTexture and edit whichever version is already there.
Write down every value you change. If the noise clears up and the wheel loses too much detail, you’ll have a route back.
MOZA owners also use app.ini to reduce wheel vibration noise, although the controls are different. The process is covered in our guide to MOZA R5 noise in iRacing.
Image Source: Logitech
Check the Rim, Quick Release, and Rig
Turn off the base before touching the quick release.
Pull the rim off, look for dirt or visible damage around the connection, and put it back on. The collar should move freely and return fully once the rim is seated.
Grab the rim at nine and three o’clock and feel for play between the wheel, quick release, and shaft. Note anything that clicks or scrapes as you rock it.
One owner found that moving the black collar through its normal travel stopped the click for almost a week. Keep the check gentle. If the collar grinds, catches, or needs force, stop there.
Using the RS Wheel Hub? Listen around its controls before blaming the quick release. Owners have reported buttons and controls rattling, so locate the sound before opening a support case for the base.
Next, check that the external bolts holding the base to the wheel deck are tight. Run the test again with a hand on the deck, then move your hand to the monitor stand, shifter mount, and side panels.
The part that goes quiet under your palm is carrying the vibration.
Cables count too. An engine-speed buzz can come from a USB lead resting against an aluminium profile. Our sim racing rig breakdown guide covers the other mounting and connection checks worth ruling out.
For a tick that only appears after a long session, listen near the rear vent as the base cools. One owner traced his sound to the cooling fan, where it appeared at a certain fan speed and faded as the fan slowed.
Tell support whether the tick follows the fan or moves the rim. Those details send the diagnosis in different directions.
Image Source: SimStaff
Know When to Stop Testing
Stop driving and open a ticket with Logitech if you hear grinding or scraping with TF Audio at 0. Do the same for play in the shaft, movement between the rim and hub, or force feedback that fades and surges through a run.
Repeated knocking under steering load needs support too. So does a fan that sounds like it’s catching the casing, or a base that cuts out as the forces build.
Leave the casing shut. The PRO Racing Wheel Base carries a 2-year limited hardware warranty, and Logitech excludes damage caused by unauthorised repair or disassembly.
If you damage the base while opening it, Logitech can reject the claim. Before changing anything else, get 20 to 30 seconds of the noise on your phone with the screen in shot. Write down:
- TF Audio, FFB Filter, and Dampener
- Game, car, track, and platform
- Wheel and G HUB firmware versions
- The serial number
- Whether the noise stays with TF Audio at 0
- Whether it happens parked, driving, or sitting in a menu
- Any app.ini lines you changed
An intermittent tick may disappear by the time a technician hears the wheel. A recording and settings list mean you don’t have to reproduce it on demand.
If the sound remains after every check and you still can’t place it, SimRigSupport can review the recording and settings through a remote troubleshooting call. Send-in repair and on-site visits are also available in the UK.
