“My Forte LEDs have stopped working” covers at least five separate problems, and from the seat they look identical. Same goes for Invicta, which runs the same software and behaves the same way when it goes wrong. The lights are frozen, dim, or gone, and that’s everything you’ve got to go on.
What tells them apart is whatever else is misbehaving. Do the buttons still respond? Is it one sim or all of them? Does the wheel still show up in RaceHub at all?
A fair few of these turn out not to be faults at all. Asetek’s own wheelbase support page runs a section headed “Are my LEDs acting up?” and it points people at the LED features that arrived in RaceHub 3.0 rather than at broken hardware. Plenty of racers go hunting for a dead LED strip when the answer is a dropdown they never set.
Start by Matching Your Symptom
| What You Noticed | Where to Start |
| Lights work fine in your other sims, but not this one | Update RaceHub and Check Game Support |
| Everything went dead after you handed control to SimHub | Check Every RaceHub and SimHub LED Setting |
| RPM lights are out, but flags still work, or the other way around | Check Every RaceHub and SimHub LED Setting |
| LEDs freeze partway through a session and come back when you restart RaceHub | Stop Your RGB Software for a Quick Test |
| Windows keeps playing the disconnect chime, or several USB devices drop at once | Check the USB Connection and Power Settings |
| The wheel lights up when you plug it in, but RaceHub never sees it | Reset Corrupted RaceHub Profiles |
Whichever row you landed on, check your RaceHub version before anything else. It takes half a minute, and an out-of-date install has caused this exact fault before.
After that, work down the page from your section. The order isn’t arbitrary. Settings and software come first because you can undo them in seconds. Deleting profiles and forcing a firmware update sit at the bottom because they overwrite what’s saved on the wheel.
Image Source: SimStaff
Update RaceHub and Check Game Support
Whether it’s every sim or only one, RaceHub itself is the cheapest thing to rule out. Version 3.0.1 fixed a case where the wheelbase LEDs sometimes didn’t update at all, so an old install can produce the exact symptom you’re looking at.
Open RaceHub and note the version number. Compare it against the latest download on Asetek’s RaceHub page, install anything newer, and let the firmware prompts run through before you load a sim.
Next, open Settings > Game Setup and pick the sim you’re having trouble with. Follow whatever setup instructions it shows for that title. Some games need launching once before RaceHub can read their data, so if you see that note, open the game, close it, and come back to Game Setup.
And if the lights behave everywhere except one title, the wheel probably isn’t your problem. Forte owners hit this with Le Mans Ultimate and assumed their hardware had failed. Support for the game landed in RaceHub 3.0, and nothing they did before that was ever going to help.
So when the trouble starts right after you pick up a new sim, check Asetek’s supported-games list first. If the title isn’t on it, no amount of USB fiddling will hand RaceHub the game data it’s missing.
Image Source: SimStaff
Check Every RaceHub and SimHub LED Setting
RaceHub controls the RPM lights, flag LEDs, and display separately. One part can work while another stays dark.
Decide whether RaceHub or SimHub will control each part of the wheel. To give SimHub control, change all 3 settings in RaceHub:
- Open Steering Wheel > Shift Lights and choose SimHub.
- Open LED > Flags and set Steering Wheel Mode to SimHub.
- Open Display > Layout and choose SimHub if you want it controlling the wheel’s screen.
Then open SimHub, go to Devices, click Add Device, and add Asetek RaceHub LEDs and Display. Asetek’s setup guide walks through the shift lights and the flag lights as two separate steps, which is exactly where people stop one short.
Use the symptom to find the setting you missed:
- RPM lights dead, flags working: check Steering Wheel > Shift Lights.
- Flags dead, RPM lights working: check LED > Flags.
- LEDs working, display dead: check Display > Layout.
- Everything stopped after switching to SimHub: confirm Asetek RaceHub LEDs and Display appears under SimHub > Devices.
To put RaceHub back in control, change each dropdown from SimHub to the RaceHub mode you used before.
Image Source: Asetek
Stop Your RGB Software for a Quick Test
Run this check if the Asetek RaceHub LEDs still freeze after updating RaceHub and checking every LED setting.
Close RaceHub. Press Windows key + R, type `services.msc`, and press Enter.
Look for ASUS AURA or Armoury Crate services and any service with Corsair or iCUE in its name. Service names can vary between software versions.
Closing the RGB app window may leave its service running. Armoury Crate’s Aura service and iCUE both keep running in the background long after you’ve shut the window, which is why closing the app on its own tells you nothing.
Stop one service, reopen RaceHub, and reproduce the fault in the same sim and car. Change one service at a time so you can identify which one changes the result.
If the LEDs recover, restart the service and repeat the same run. If they recover twice with the service stopped, you’ve found a repeatable trigger.
If nothing changes, restart that service and move to the next one. Leave Startup Type unchanged until you’ve repeated the result.
If iCUE controls your cooler, pump, or fans, stop its service only long enough to reproduce the fault. Start it again immediately and confirm the normal cooling profile has returned.
Write down the service name and what happened. You’ll need that detail if the LEDs fail again or you send RaceHub logs to Asetek.
Image Source: SimStaff
Check the USB Connection and Power Settings
Work through this section if you hear the Windows disconnect chime, RaceHub drops the base during a session, or the LEDs return after you reconnect the cable.
Turn off the base and connect its USB cable directly to the PC. Remove any extension cable or external USB hub between them.
Disconnect every device plugged into the USB ports on the back of the base. Run the next check with those ports empty.
If it’s still dropping out, try a different cable of 2 metres or less, then move to another port on the PC, ideally USB 2.0. Asetek includes both steps in its wheelbase disconnect procedure.
Next, stop Windows from powering down the USB hubs:
- Right-click Start and open Device Manager.
- Expand Universal Serial Bus controllers.
- Double-click a USB Root Hub or Generic USB Hub.
- Open the Power Management tab.
- Untick Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.
- Repeat this for the remaining hubs, then restart the PC.
Some entries won’t have a Power Management tab. Leave those unchanged and move to the next one.
If the disconnects continue, update the motherboard BIOS and chipset drivers using the files supplied by the motherboard or PC manufacturer. Asetek includes both checks in its USB troubleshooting advice.
Image Source: SimStaff
Trace the Base to Its USB Controller
Check the controller layout if moving the cable changes the fault without curing it or if several USB devices disconnect at the same time.
Leave every HID-compliant consumer control device enabled unless you know which physical device it belongs to. Windows can use that name for keyboards, headsets, button boxes, and media controls, so disabling the wrong entry can remove working inputs.
Open Device Manager and select View > Devices by Connection. Expand the USB branches until you find the Asetek base.
If its name isn’t obvious, unplug the base and watch which entry disappears. Reconnect it and confirm that the same entry returns.
Follow that branch upward to the USB Root Hub and USB host controller above it. This shows which controller Windows is using for the base.
Move the cable to another physical port, refresh Device Manager, and check whether the base appears beneath a different controller. Reproduce the fault in the same sim and car after each move.
Several devices can share one controller without causing a problem. Treat the controller as the trigger only if the fault changes when the base moves to another one.
If the LEDs work through 2 runs on the new port, keep the base connected there.
Use Microsoft USBView if Device Manager doesn’t show enough detail. USBView lists the PC’s controllers, hubs, and attached devices in a connection tree.
Reset Corrupted RaceHub Profiles
Use this fix when the wheel lights up after connection but doesn’t appear in RaceHub.
Turn off the base and close RaceHub.
Before deleting anything, copy the Steering Wheel and Display folders to your desktop. You can restore them if RaceHub removes a setup you wanted to keep.
Press Windows key + R, type %appdata%, and press Enter.
Open:
Asetek SimSports > Racehub > Base profiles
Delete every file inside the Steering Wheel folder. If your wheel has a display, delete every file inside the Display folder too.
Empty the recycle bin, open RaceHub, turn on the base, and connect the wheel. RaceHub should recreate the deleted files when it detects the hardware.
Continue to the firmware recovery section if the wheel still lights up without appearing in RaceHub.
Force the Steering Wheel Firmware Update
Install the latest RaceHub before you start. The current version carries the drivers the update relies on.
Then run Asetek’s recovery sequence:
- Turn off the base and take the wheel off.
- Open RaceHub.
- Turn the base back on.
- Hold down the top two buttons on the wheel.
- Keep holding them while you attach the wheel to the base.
- A dialog pops up telling you the wheel’s been detected in update mode.
- Click Update Steering Wheel.
- Leave the wheel on the base until RaceHub says it’s done.
No dialog? Take the wheel off, turn the base off, and run the whole thing again from step one. It’s fiddly and it often takes two goes.
Once it finishes, check that the wheel is showing in RaceHub and that the LEDs react when you change a setting.
Image Source: SimStaff
Before You Plug Everything Back In
Give it two clean sessions before you call it fixed. If the LEDs hold, leave the setup exactly as it is for now.
Then start putting things back one at a time. Replug a peripheral, or restart an RGB service, and run the same sim after each one. Whatever brings the fault back is your culprit, and now you know what to leave off or reconfigure.
If the result keeps moving around and you can’t pin it to anything repeatable, send the logs to Asetek or book a troubleshooting call with SimRigSupport. Have the RaceHub ZIP, your software version, the sim it happens in, and whatever Device Manager showed you ready before you get on the call.
